White cabinets have always been a dream of mine. New cabinets aren’t in the budget, and ours don’t need to be replaced, so I painted them myself!
Painting cabinets is a great way to get the updated look you want for less.
Putting a sander to my cabinets felt like a point of no return, so I did a lot of research before I dipped my brush into some paint. I read many blog posts by professional painters, and even got an estimate from a local painting company and talked through their process.
In this post, I’m sharing the process I used and the lessons I’ve learned along the way!
Here’s what we’re working with
My cabinets were previously stained, builder-grade cabinets.
Your results may be different than mine depending on the type of cabinets you have, their condition, and the materials you use.
Materials
- Paper or drop cloths
- 120 grit sandpaper
- 220 grit sandpaper
- Roller/roller cover (Purdy Mini Jumbo roller with White Dove ¼” roller cover)
- Painter’s tape (I like FrogTape)
- Short, angled paint brush (natural bristle for oil-based primer, synthetic for latex paint)
- Paint sprayer (optional – I have the Wagner Flexio3000)
- Wood filler
- Paintable caulk
- Tack cloths or lint free rag
- Mineral spirits
- Sherwin Williams Problock Oil-Based Primer
- Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
Tools
- Orbital sander (I have a Dewalt 5-inch random orbital sander)
- Screwdriver
Protective Equipment
- Dust mask (I like these masks from Amazon; they come with extra filters)
- Respirator
- Safety glasses
- Work gloves
- Nitrile gloves
- Ear protection
Let’s Talk Paint!
Primer
I used Sherwin Williams Problock oil-based primer for my previously-stained cabinets.
I’ll be honest; I researched up and down to find a way out of this because I hate the cleanup associated with oil-based primers/paints. I couldn’t find one. Bottom line, an oil-based primer will seal the sanded surface better than a latex primer.
If you’re going to spend the time (and money) doing this project, you want to do it well and you want it to last so you don’t have to do it again (unless you want to, of course!).
Paint
For a topcoat, use latex paint or urethane. I used Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.
I was relieved to discover that an oil-based topcoat is NOT recommended. From what I read, it can yellow over time, especially if using white. Gross.
Color
Choose whatever color you like! I used Pure White.
Finish
The higher the gloss, the more durable the finish. Typically, a satin, semi-gloss, or gloss finish is recommended for cabinets.
I’m not a fan of really high gloss finishes, but I wanted to be sure that it would hold up. I don’t expect to have to wipe these down as often as I would in my kitchen, but I want to be able to clean them without worry, so I went with semi-gloss.
Hardware
Determine if you’re going to reuse the existing handles/pulls on the cabinet doors and drawers. I replaced mine with these pulls.
If you’re getting new pulls, double-check the length of the screws with the depth of your drawers. The ones I ordered online worked with the doors, but were too short for the drawers. Luckily, I was able to reuse the existing screws with the new hardware.
Project Timeframe
Be sure to give yourself ample time from start to finish. I completed this project over the course of about 3 weeks, working on and off (mostly on weekends).
There are a lot of tedious steps (i.e., sanding), so I found it best to work in smaller increments of time and take breaks. There are also several coats of paint that are needed, so you’ll need enough time to allow things to dry properly.
Remember that your space will be temporarily out of use for the duration of your project. To save myself some sanity, I focused on painting the cabinet base first. Once the base was done, I could at least use my bathroom again and put some items back while I worked on the drawer faces and doors.
Prep Work
Protect Yourself
Before you do anything, make sure you have the proper personal protective equipment.
You’ll be sanding, cleaning, and painting, which means you’ll be dealing with dust and chemical particulates in the air. To keep yourself safe, make sure you are able to get good ventilation in your space.
Always wear the appropriate protective equipment at each stage of this project and read all of the safety information on your tools and materials.
Protect Your Things
Protect the floors around your cabinets by laying out paper or drop cloths.
Set up another area where you can work on your cabinet doors and drawers. Remember that they will need time to dry in an undisturbed area.
Prepare Cabinets
Empty everything out of the cabinets and drawers. This is a great time to take stock of what you have and purge what you don’t need.
Remove the handles/knobs from the drawers and cabinet doors.
Remove the drawers from the base and take off the doors. Be sure to remove the hinges as well.
You might be tempted to paint around everything, but removing everything will make it easier to get nice, even coats and will look more professional.
Label all of the hardware! I used some painter’s tape and labeled each drawer, cabinet, and hinge. For the hinges, I noted which was at the top and bottom of each door. Put all of your hardware in zipper bags to keep it all safe!
If you have a vent under your cabinets, remove that cover, too. I decided to spray paint mine black.
The Process
This is the process I used. There were some parts where trial and error was necessary. I’m sharing what I learned so you can hopefully have an even better result!
The #1 thing I learned was that the prep work you do is so important to the end result. Take your time and don’t cut corners if you want a flawless and professional look.
Clean
First, clean everything really well. I used Dawn dish soap and scrubbed every nook and cranny.
These cabinets are in my bathroom, and while they were quiiite dusty (oops), they weren’t very dirty. If you’re painting cabinets in a kitchen, you will need a degreaser to make sure everything is spotless.
If your hinges are rusty, you can clean these pretty easily. Mine were, so I gave them a wash with Barkeeper’s Friend and scrub brush.
Seriously, if you don’t have a bottle of this stuff, get some! It’s magic.
Fix Imperfections
Look over your cabinets carefully and fill any dents, dings, or holes with wood filler. If you’re replacing handles that need new holes drilled, fill any existing ones that will not be used.
Sand
This step is so important! Do not skip it!
There are tutorials and products that claim you can skip this step, but really, if you want to paint cabinets with a lasting and professional look, you HAVE to sand.
I get it; sanding is messy and boring. I was tempted to skip this step, too, but I’m glad I didn’t.
Imagine putting in many hours to paint your cabinets, and you end up with a beautiful finished product, only to drop something, have it graze your new paint job, and the paint scratches right off.
Just sand. It’s worth your time.
I used my orbital sander with 150 grit sandpaper on the flat areas of the drawers, doors, and cabinet base. To minimize dust, I hooked up my ShopVac to the end of the sander.
For all of the curved edges and places the sander couldn’t reach, I used sheets and did them by hand with a lot of elbow grease.
The goal in sanding is to remove the existing gloss on the cabinets. It helps to run your hand across the surface to find spots you may have missed.
Clean (Again)
Next, clean up all of the sanding dust. I used a lint free rag damp with warm soapy water. Tack cloths were easier to use out in the garage where I had my doors.
Prime Time
First Coat
Once everything is sanded and clean, it’s time for the first coat of primer. The Sherwin Williams Problock primer is a great product, but fair warning, it has a really strong smell.
It’s really important to make sure you have a fan going and/or a window open and are working in areas with good ventilation. Always wear protective equipment.
To paint the cabinet base, I used a natural bristle brush. I only use Purdy brushes. Over time, I’ve learned to NOT go with cheap brushes. It’s so annoying to find bristles in your finished coat of paint. You’ll notice a definite difference in the quality as you’re painting, too!
I used a small roller for the larger, flat areas. I recommend this roller with a ¼” White Dove cover. I started with a 1/2″ nap, which was too much. I suggest painting a scrap piece of wood as a test. You can thin the primer with a little bit of mineral spirits if needed; if you do, think teaspoons, and add the mineral spirits to the primer in a separate container, not directly to the paint can.
I didn’t thin the primer, but I would if I were to do this again.
It’s also really important to read all of the safety instructions carefully if you’re using a paint sprayer. The primer I used was not safe to spray with my sprayer (materials have flash points, or temperatures at which they can ignite in air, and depending on that temperature, you may or may not be able to use a sprayer to apply). Make sure you understand your materials and tools and use them all safely and only according to their instructions.
I started with the backs of the cabinet doors and drawers. I chose to remove the drawer faces from the drawers to simplify things. You could leave them attached and tape off the drawers if you want.
Apply the first coat of primer. A thin coat is best. Follow the dry time on primer instructions. Most primers will list a recoat time. Don’t rush it, and remember that the temperature/humidity will affect this timing, too.
When everything is dry, sand the primed surface with 220 grit sandpaper. I know, more sanding. This round of sanding goes more quickly than the first.
I chose to sand by hand using sheets of sandpaper and a sanding block.
The goal for sanding the primer is to knock down any rough areas and be sure you have a completely flat surface for your next coat.
When finished, clean up all of your dust again. Are you starting to see the pattern here?
Second Coat
Apply a second coat of primer following the same process as before. Allow it to dry completely and repeat the sanding and cleaning process.
Did you know? You don’t have to clean your brushes/rollers between coats!
I hate the cleanup associated with oil-based products, but I minimized the amount of cleanup I had as much as possible.
Between coats of primer, you can wrap your used brushes and rollers in foil, place in a plastic bag, and put in your refrigerator. Pull them out and unwrap when you’re ready to begin another coat.
If you have a paint tray, line it with foil, pour in your paint, and cover with another piece of foil between coats.
No need to clean up in between and nothing dries out!
When it is time to clean up, make sure you follow all of the instructions and warnings when you’re using solvents and disposing of any rags, brushes, or other materials that have been soaked in an oil-based product. You CAN’T just rinse any of this down your sink or throw away brushes/rags. Spontaneous combustion is a thing, and house fires occur every year as a result of improper storage and disposal of materials. Do your research and refer to the recycling/waste management department where you live to learn about proper disposal.
Caulk
This step is optional, but it helps give you a professional look especially if you are painting cabinets white or a light color.
The pictures below show the same spot before and after caulk. See the difference it makes?
When all of your priming is done, caulk any gaps with a sandable, paintable caulk.
I caulked the trim around the cabinet doors and where the wall meets the cabinet base.
You could complete this step at other times during the process, but I think it is easiest to do after priming, right before the top coat. That way, you won’t have to avoid caulk while sanding.
Top Coat
Finally! The fun part! It’s time for the top coat.
I used Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane for Trim and Door and loved it. It is self-leveling, which means the paint will level out brush strokes as it dries.
I sprayed the top coat with my Wagner paint sprayer. This was the first time I used a sprayer, and it does take some practice! I’d suggest practicing on something prior to spraying your cabinets.
The sprayer does give a professional finish that is harder to achieve with just a brush and roller. Once you get the hang of it, it is so quick and easy to get the top coat on!
Reassemble Cabinets
Once everything is painted and dry, it’s time to reattach the doors, drawers, and hardware.
The Finished Product
You now have beautifully painted cabinets! According to a local painter, the Emerald Urethane takes some time to cure. It was recommended to me to use the cabinets as I normally would, but allow 30 days before scrubbing them to clean.
My cabinets have been painted for about two months at the time of this post, and I’m loving them! They have held up perfectly!
Painting cabinets is a big undertaking, but done with the proper techniques and materials, it is a great way to get a fresh look on a budget!
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